Surfing has always been on my bucket list, so while in Hawaii, I definitely had to seize the opportunity! I consider myself a beach girl, so anything that involves the ocean 100% excites me. Surfing ended up being SO fun and awesome, I wanted to tell you guys all about it.
First of all, this is why I like surfing:
- Being out in the ocean is just an overall surreal thing. Just how the water feels on your skin while the sun is shining above you… It’s perfect.
- I love to learn new things and looove being active! Riding the waves was a total workout because you paddle a lot with your arms, you have to have decently strong legs to keep yourself steady on the board, and you work your core in order to remain balanced and controlled.
- I felt extremely close to Nature and God. I had this amazing appreciation fill my body while being out there. Like, “Wow I have the open water ahead of me, the mountains behind me… I am trusting the waves and nature and I am being protected by God.” It was just so cool and I couldn’t stop smiling the whole time.
So yeah, obviously there is physical and emotional and even a little bit spiritual satisfaction that I found during my surf experience, but I also learned a lot the two times I was able to go!
Here is what I learned:
- The most important thing is form. The first day I went surfing I came back with bruises on my knees, hips, and even my ribs because I wasn’t lying on the board properly. If you plan to go surfing, I highly recommend NOT clinging to the board with the sides of your feet, instead, place them side-by-side on the back of the board. It makes a huge difference.
- GO FOR IT. I quickly found out that hesitation either means wasted energy or total wipeout. The second you think “Oh frick I am about to get plowed by the wave,” you definitely will get plowed by it. You just have to straight up think “I got it.” And then you just pop up as quickly as you can.
- Your entire backside that is uncovered will become fried. Absolutely burnt. (Unless you’re not out there for very long) there is almost no way to avoid it. Just be ready for some sore butt cheeks. You’ll be fine.
- Do not ever think about sharks, cramps or horrible things that could happen to you while surfing. That will cause hesitation and anxiety and you won’t have as much fun. Always surf with a buddy to improve your chances of a safe experience.
So yes, surfing will wreck you. Especially the first time. You will be sore from using muscles that you don’t usually use. You will have bruises from falling awkwardly on your board. You will get salt water in your nose and your eyes and mouth. You might even scrape your foot on coral or get nailed by a stray surfboard (all which happened to me.) But I can 99.9% guarantee you that it will be worth it.
On both of the days, when I finished surfing, I was exhausted to my soul and went to sleep still feeling like I was floating on a surfboard, with waves rocking me. I also went to sleep smiling and feeling entirely accomplished.
Also, quick shout out to Kapu’uwai for teaching me how to surf! She’s the cutest lady and has been surfing for 50 years which is pretty freakingggg cool. Also, shout out to the rest of the cool people that helped me have this amazing experience. Photos below 🙂
Oh and also I decided to name the board I was using “The Santa Maria.” Because it sails the ocean blue and I discovered a new world on it. (Like Christopher Columbus in case you forgot about him.)